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stuartm_stukontrol [2010/03/09 15:06]
stuartm layout update
stuartm_stukontrol [2016/07/03 13:05] (current)
psykhaze
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 ====== StuKontrol - a MIDIbox64 project ====== ====== StuKontrol - a MIDIbox64 project ======
  
-notethis report is still in progress+{{:07_frontpanel_complete.jpg.jpeg|}}
  
 ====== Idea and Development ====== ====== Idea and Development ======
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 For a breadboard test, i connected two pots to the AINX and the module to the core, grounded the remaining inputs, started MIDI-OX on the laptop, powered up the core and WEEEEEE! It worked! For a breadboard test, i connected two pots to the AINX and the module to the core, grounded the remaining inputs, started MIDI-OX on the laptop, powered up the core and WEEEEEE! It worked!
 I fired up Ableton Live and created a short sequence with impOSCar and routed the two pots to cutoff and resonance. I fired up Ableton Live and created a short sequence with impOSCar and routed the two pots to cutoff and resonance.
-It all worked well and without any signal hazzles, so I quickly decided to record a short video [HERE].+It all worked well and without any signal hazzles, so I quickly decided to record a short video
 + 
 +http://​vimeo.com/​7903764 
  
 In parallel, I had finished the panel design and ordered it from Schaeffer. In parallel, I had finished the panel design and ordered it from Schaeffer.
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-Frontpanel from Schaeffer+=== Frontpanel from Schaeffer ​===
  
 +I went through several design iteration in the Frontpanel-Designer. To better evaluate the layouts (main buttons left/right, distance between pot knobs etc.) I also printed them in 1:1, gives you a better feeling how the thing in the end could turn out.
 +
 +The final layout was 16 channels with (from bottom to top)
 +  * one fader
 +  * red stop button
 +  * green start button
 +  * space for scribble strip
 +  * 2 pots
 +per channel, the main control buttons and 4 general pots went to the left.
 +
 +Here's what I ordered from Schaeffer:
 +
 +{{:​stu_mb64_panel.jpg.jpeg|}}
 +
 +And this is what I got about 2 weeks later (with faders already fitted in:
 +
 +{{:​panel.jpg.jpeg|}}
 +
 +=== 60mm Alps Faders with wide Knobs ===
  
-- 60mm Alps Faders with wide Knobs 
 Those are stereo faders, which is not necessary for MB applications,​ but I kinda liked the feel of these compared to the ALPS "​Miniture Fader" (also 60mm) that Reichelt offers. The only downside is the fairly high price of ca. 5 EUR per fader Those are stereo faders, which is not necessary for MB applications,​ but I kinda liked the feel of these compared to the ALPS "​Miniture Fader" (also 60mm) that Reichelt offers. The only downside is the fairly high price of ca. 5 EUR per fader
  
-ALPS Potentiometers+=== ALPS Potentiometers ​=== 
 Like the faders, these are a bit more expensive. But I've tested several pots and in the end I really like the smooth feel of the ALPS pots. Like the faders, these are a bit more expensive. But I've tested several pots and in the end I really like the smooth feel of the ALPS pots.
  
-Potentiometer Knobs +=== Potentiometer Knobs ===
-These are coming from Conrad, as Reichelt does not have any useful knob, I think. I did some research and found these one called FlexKnobs, they looked quite similar to the ones on the Clavia MicroModular. I had ordered a few other types, sizes and colours for testing. The flex knobs immideately won. The only decision open was between the 11mm and 13mm knobs. I finally went for the smaller ones, as this could keep the space betwenn the knobs small enough and have enought space for the fingers twisitng the knobs. However, I think the 13mm ones are best for twisting and tweaking.+
  
-Digitast DT6 from Reichelt +These are coming from Conrad, as Reichelt does not have any useful knob, I think. I did some research and found these one called FlexKnobs, they looked quite similar to the ones on the Clavia MicroModular. I had ordered a few other types, sizes and colours for testing. The flex knobs immideately won. The only decision open was between the 11mm and 13mm knobs. I finally went for the smaller ones, as this could keep the space betwenn the knobs small enough and have enought space for the fingers twisitng the knobs. However, I think the 13mm ones are best for twisting and tweaking if you have enough space between them (or thinner fingers than me). 
-These push buttons were recommended by TK for the SeqV3, so I used them on mine as well. They have a nice tactile response and are fairly cheap, even in different colours.+ 
 +=== Digitast DT6 from Reichelt ​=== 
 + 
 +These push buttons were recommended by TK for the SeqV3, so I used them on my MBSeq as well as now for the StuKontrol. They have a nice tactile response and are fairly cheap, even in different colours.
  
  
 ====== Mounting the parts ====== ====== Mounting the parts ======
  
-All the parts arrived in time with the frontpanel, so I could start mechanical assembly.+All the parts arrived in time with the frontpanel, so I could start mechanical assembly ​(see faders above). 
 +It mounted the panel on some spare wood wedge for better handling. 
 In the panel design I incoorporated front panel holes for screws to hold the different parts. In the panel design I incoorporated front panel holes for screws to hold the different parts.
 This results in a bunch of screws in the front panel, but I decided to go this way as it was the easiest solution for me then. This results in a bunch of screws in the front panel, but I decided to go this way as it was the easiest solution for me then.
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-Faders+=== Faders ​=== 
 The faders are mounted using their mounting holes, plastic spacers and M3 screws. The spacers are available from Reichelt and are very useful for front panel mounting. The faders are mounted using their mounting holes, plastic spacers and M3 screws. The spacers are available from Reichelt and are very useful for front panel mounting.
  
-Buttons +(image to be added) 
-The buttons are soldered to veroboards, then 3mm holes drilled into it for mounting. M3 screws combined with the plastic ​spaces ​(see faders) and nuts are used for mounting the verboards to the front panel.+ 
 +=== Buttons ​=== 
 + 
 +The buttons are soldered to veroboards, then 3mm holes drilled into it for mounting. M3 screws combined with the plastic ​spacers ​(see faders) and nuts are used for mounting the verboards to the front panel. 
 +See here an example for the main control buttons: 
 + 
 +{{:​bboard_mounting.jpg.jpeg|}} 
 + 
 +=== Pots ===
  
-- Pots 
 I originally had planned to mount the pots on veroboards as well and then mount those to the front panel like the button boards. The intention was to have the knobs sitting right above the panel surface. ​ I originally had planned to mount the pots on veroboards as well and then mount those to the front panel like the button boards. The intention was to have the knobs sitting right above the panel surface. ​
 But as I did a first test board, this turned out to be very unstable. But as I did a first test board, this turned out to be very unstable.
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 I was surprised that when putting the knobs on that it didn't look that bad with the washer and nut on the surface. But mainly the sturdy feel of the fixed pot convinved my to go this way. I was surprised that when putting the knobs on that it didn't look that bad with the washer and nut on the surface. But mainly the sturdy feel of the fixed pot convinved my to go this way.
 To ensure that the pots are not turining inside their fixation, I soldered them in groups of four to a small strip of veroboards and then mounted them. Since I originally had the intentions of a suspended board mounting for the pots, I also had holes drilled in the panel for these boards. There are now left unused, but they will come in handy later. To ensure that the pots are not turining inside their fixation, I soldered them in groups of four to a small strip of veroboards and then mounted them. Since I originally had the intentions of a suspended board mounting for the pots, I also had holes drilled in the panel for these boards. There are now left unused, but they will come in handy later.
 +
 +(image to be added)
 +
 +=== Finished Assembly ===
 +
 +Here's the panel fully stuffed with all parts:
 +
 +{{:​06_all_mounted.jpg.jpeg|}}
 +{{:​07_frontpanel_complete.jpg.jpeg|}}
  
 ====== Wiring ====== ====== Wiring ======
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 By pure chance, i only had to add a few more mounting screws for the PCBs. The others are using the button board mounting screws (with washers in between) or separate mounting screws using the unused hole originally intended for the pot boards (see above). The module are now located this way: By pure chance, i only had to add a few more mounting screws for the PCBs. The others are using the button board mounting screws (with washers in between) or separate mounting screws using the unused hole originally intended for the pot boards (see above). The module are now located this way:
  
-DIN module underneath the general control button board with wires to only these button +  * DIN module underneath the general control button board with wires to only these button 
-DIN module underneath the right part of the track control button boards and connected to them +  ​* ​DIN module underneath the right part of the track control button boards and connected to them 
-CORE module underneatch middle track control button board, sitting more or less in the middle of the panel +  ​* ​CORE module underneatch middle track control button board, sitting more or less in the middle of the panel 
-AIN module for 32 track pots underneath upper right pots, using unused holes +  ​* ​AIN module for 32 track pots underneath upper right pots, using unused holes 
-AIN module for 16 faders and 4 general pots underneath left track control button board+  ​* ​AIN module for 16 faders and 4 general pots underneath left track control button board
  
 For the wiring all the modules were removed again. With the target for each wire group set (module position) the wiring could be planned out. I took me some time to re-gain my soldering skills developed with the MBSeqV3, but in the end it went pretty well, although quite time-consuming. For the wiring all the modules were removed again. With the target for each wire group set (module position) the wiring could be planned out. I took me some time to re-gain my soldering skills developed with the MBSeqV3, but in the end it went pretty well, although quite time-consuming.
 +
 +Here's how it looked at the beginning:
 +
 +{{:​08_wiring_pt1.jpg.jpeg|}}
 +
  
 The wires were soldered directly to the module pins. This made some later de-bugging a bit painful (de-soldering,​ soldering, de-soldering,​ soldering etc.), but the connectors I used for this on the MBSeq also proved to be quite unreliable when assembly by me. The wires were soldered directly to the module pins. This made some later de-bugging a bit painful (de-soldering,​ soldering, de-soldering,​ soldering etc.), but the connectors I used for this on the MBSeq also proved to be quite unreliable when assembly by me.
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 For the connections between the modules I used a mixture of direct pin soldering and connector, to allow at least quick unplugging of (possibly buggy) modules. For the connections between the modules I used a mixture of direct pin soldering and connector, to allow at least quick unplugging of (possibly buggy) modules.
  
-The final result is not geometrically attractive and looks a bit chaotic, but it's a solution not really planned beforehand.+The final result is not geometrically attractive and looks a bit chaotic, but it's a solution not really planned beforehand
 + 
 + 
 +{{:​09_wiring_done.jpg.jpeg|}}
  
 ====== Testing ====== ====== Testing ======
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 +====== Casing ======
 +
 +(... to be continued)
  
 +====== Making Music ======
  
  
  
  
stuartm_stukontrol.1268147164.txt.gz · Last modified: 2010/03/09 15:06 by stuartm