wilba_mb_6582_control_surface_parts_list
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wilba_mb_6582_control_surface_parts_list [2008/10/11 14:18] 127.0.0.1 external edit |
wilba_mb_6582_control_surface_parts_list [2010/12/15 03:22] (current) wilba |
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| The control surface PCBs are designed to work with the following parts: | The control surface PCBs are designed to work with the following parts: | ||
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| * 3mm LEDs, preferably bright ones. 64x LEDs for modulation matrix, 48x other CS LEDs on control surface, 1x LED for power on (mounts above power switch). Since all LEDs are in a 16x8 LED matrix, it is not advised to use different colours of LEDs that are powered by the same DOUT pin (through the same resistor) as the brightness will be different. See {{mb-6582:mb-6582_cs_dout_wiring.pdf}} for LED wiring on the control surface. For example, if "SID 1" LED was red and "LFO 4" LED was green, most likely "SID 1" LED would be much brighter, since red LEDs are typically much brighter than green, on top of having a smaller voltage drop (so even a red and green with identical mcd value would have different brightness because they would receive different current due to different voltage drops across the current limiting resistor on the DOUT). However, you can use different LEDs in the mod matrix to the rest, as these use their own DOUT which is not shared with the other LEDs, so you are able to use different resistors in that DOUT to compensate for the different voltage drop. i.e. you can use red in the mod matrix, green elsewhere, and use higher resistor values before JD6 than the ones before JD7 | * 3mm LEDs, preferably bright ones. 64x LEDs for modulation matrix, 48x other CS LEDs on control surface, 1x LED for power on (mounts above power switch). Since all LEDs are in a 16x8 LED matrix, it is not advised to use different colours of LEDs that are powered by the same DOUT pin (through the same resistor) as the brightness will be different. See {{mb-6582:mb-6582_cs_dout_wiring.pdf}} for LED wiring on the control surface. For example, if "SID 1" LED was red and "LFO 4" LED was green, most likely "SID 1" LED would be much brighter, since red LEDs are typically much brighter than green, on top of having a smaller voltage drop (so even a red and green with identical mcd value would have different brightness because they would receive different current due to different voltage drops across the current limiting resistor on the DOUT). However, you can use different LEDs in the mod matrix to the rest, as these use their own DOUT which is not shared with the other LEDs, so you are able to use different resistors in that DOUT to compensate for the different voltage drop. i.e. you can use red in the mod matrix, green elsewhere, and use higher resistor values before JD6 than the ones before JD7 | ||
| - | * 15x Rotary Encoders. They are the ones that Voti sell http://www.voti.nl/winkel/p/SW-ROT.html , but I didn't get them from Voti, I got them direct from Electronics China, part number R162EC-BD1-24C {{mb-6582:r1-ec.pdf|Datasheet}} which have shaft length 20mm (L=20mm) and overall height of 26.5mm. If you look closely on the PCB, you'll see there's provision for smaller encoders with a different pinout, but they might not be the right height. The ones I use can be pulled apart and the detent removed, but leave the menu encoder detented for better handling of menus, patch changes etc. Other builders confirm that an "Alpha" brand rotary encoder (Mouser part [[http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=qRWIMmAGXrVCoTgUzga3YA%3d%3d|318-ENC160F-24P]]) is identical. | + | * **NOTE on LEDs**: apparently some time after the original writing of this WIKI page, it has been discovered that blue, purple, and white LEDs (well anything with a large proportion of energy in the high frequency end of the spectrum) are hard to use, and possibly also bad for your eyes... While we're at it, apparently for best results you should be looking for tinted LEDs (not waterclear) with wide (60 degree? 100 degree?) viewing angles. Oh, and anything "high brightness" is out now. [[http://midibox.org/forums/index.php?/topic/12087-mb-6582-cs-leds-water-clear-or-tinted/page__hl__+white%20+led__st__40]] |
| - | * 15x Knobs. I'm using the "Waldorf" knobs from ALBS.de (just like TK!) and these nicely cover the threaded bushings on the encoders that poke through above the panel by 1.5mm. I used part #863062, "Drehknopf DK16-190V3 A.6/4,5 AT=14,5 schwarz soft-transparent rot TR-3925" [[http://www.albs.de/ecom/images/863062.pdf]] | + | * 15x Rotary Encoders. They are the ones that Voti sell [[http://www.voti.nl/winkel/p/SW-ROT.html]], but I didn't get them from Voti, I got them direct from Electronics China, part number R162EC-BD1-24C {{mb-6582:r1-ec.pdf|Datasheet}} which have shaft length 20mm (L=20mm) and overall height of 26.5mm. If you look closely on the PCB, you'll see there's provision for smaller encoders with a different pinout, but they might not be the right height. The ones I use can be pulled apart and the detent removed, but leave the menu encoder detented for better handling of menus, patch changes etc. Other builders confirm that an "Alpha" brand rotary encoder (Mouser part #: 318-ENC160F-24P ) is identical. **UPDATE: I now highly recommend the Bourns version of this encoder, (Mouser part #: 652-PEC16-4220FN0024), cheaper than the Alpha, very easy to turn, smooth feel, but still a good detent. It's what I ship in my other DIY kits.** |
| - | * Case. The PT-10 from PacTec. If you want this control surface, there's no point using any other case. (Well, that's my opinion anyway. You don't have to use the PT-10 and it might be fun to see someone use this in a huge rackmount case, or in some other construction with wood endcheeks or something.) | + | * 15x Knobs. I'm using the "Waldorf" knobs from ALBS.de (just like TK!) and these nicely cover the threaded bushings on the encoders that poke through above the panel by 1.5mm. These are the part numbers from [[http://www.albs.de]]: |
| - | * Fan. 40mm fan. I used a fan removed from a [[http://www.coolermaster.com/products/product.php?act=detail&id=72|Cooler Master Blue Ice Pro]] chipset fan. | + | |863129|Drehknopf DK16-190V3 A.6/4,5 AT=14 schwarz soft-grau 1677498| |
| + | |863120|Drehknopf DK16-190V3 A.6/4,5 AT=14 schwarz soft-rot 3092| | ||
| + | |863118|Drehknopf DK16-190V3 A.6/4,5 AT=14 schwarz soft-weiß| | ||
| - | {{mb-6582:nb10.jpg}} | + | **Do not email ALBS.de and try to order just 15 knobs, they may ignore your email. There are bulk orders arranged on the MIDIbox forum for these knobs. If you missed out on a bulk order, start one of your own and get orders for at least 100 knobs before emailing ALBS.de.** |
| + | |||
| + | * Case. The PT-10 from PacTec. If you want this control surface, there's no point using any other case. (Well, that's my opinion anyway. You don't have to use the PT-10 and it might be fun to see someone use this in a huge rackmount case, or in some other construction with wood endcheeks or something.) | ||
| - | However, any 40mm fan will do. I suggest [[http://www.performance-pcs.com|Performance-PCs.com]] as they have a range of really cool and cheap 40mm fans with LEDs, and you can get a 40mm fan grill at the same time. | + | * Fan. 40mm fan. The prototype used a fan removed from a [[http://www.coolermaster.com/products/product.php?act=detail&id=72|Cooler Master Blue Ice Pro]] chipset fan. Other ones I built used standard black 40mm fans (i.e. intended for use in PC cooling). I suggest [[http://www.performance-pcs.com|Performance-PCs.com]] as they have a good range of 40mm fans (with or without LEDs) and you can get a 40mm fan grill at the same time. **Warning: 40mm fans with 20mm width are often very noisy.** I advise getting a quiet 10mm wide fan and running on 5 volts. The fan is mostly for making your MB-6582 look cool; a small airflow and vents cut on the right side are enough to stop the internals getting too hot. |
| * The panels to suit the PT-10 case are 1.5mm aluminium, and this thickness is required to make the switch shafts and rotary encoders poke through the panel the right amount. | * The panels to suit the PT-10 case are 1.5mm aluminium, and this thickness is required to make the switch shafts and rotary encoders poke through the panel the right amount. | ||
| - | * 48x 1N4148 small signal diodes. | + | * 50x 1N4148 small signal diodes. |
wilba_mb_6582_control_surface_parts_list.1223734680.txt.gz · Last modified: 2008/11/29 15:34 (external edit)
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