Differences

This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.

--- pad_4_4 [2016/08/10 23:03] – [Assembly] latigid_on
+++ pad_4_4 [2018/03/05 22:57] (current) – [Assembly] latigid_on
@@ Line 54: / Line 54: @@
 ===== Assembly =====
-In order to keep the button pad flat, it's best to solder all components on the rear of the board i.e. opposite the pads. The contacts are exposed ENIG, so try not to damage the surface by scratching or splashing solder/flux on them.\\
+To keep the button pad flat, it's best to solder all components on the rear of the board i.e. opposite the pads. The contacts are exposed ENIG, so try not to damage the surface by scratching or splashing solder/flux on them.\\
 Start by tinning one pad (preferably not the pad joined to the ground plane with thermals) of each 1206 capacitor, making a "tack" joint, aligning the part and cleaning up if needed.\\
-The best way to fix the 1N4148 diodes is to place the parts then solder **from the same side** only the anode lead on the inside of the button pad. Turn the board around and clip the cathode lead as close to the board as possible. You can even pull the lead out slightly. On the **rear** of the board, solder the cathode with as little solder as possible. The aim is to leave no solder bump on the frontside. Try to give equal care to the other through hole components (R1, C1, D1, J1).
+The best way to fix the 1N4148 diodes is to place the parts then solder **from the same side** just the anode lead that intersects the pLED silkscreen. (The length of this lead isn't important as the LED will not be flush on the top face. Don't short out any pins though!) Turn the board around and clip the cathode lead as close to the board as possible. You can even pull the loose lead out slightly as long as you can still make a solid joint. On the **rear** of the board, solder the cathode with as little solder as possible. The aim is to leave no solder bump on the frontside. Try to give equal care to the other through hole components (R1, C1, D1, J1).
-If using shrouded headers, ensure the notch points on the same side as the pin 1 designator.
+Check that the pinout of your pLEDs matches with the board i.e. serial in on the rounded side, serial out on the flattened side. Also test the height relative to the silicone button pad; it's not necessary to push the leads in the whole way (and you might damage your LED).
+If using shrouded headers, ensure the notch points out on the same side as the pin 1 designator.