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wilba_mb_6582_base_pcb_construction_guide

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wilba_mb_6582_base_pcb_construction_guide [2009/04/06 02:05] – frailnwilba_mb_6582_base_pcb_construction_guide [2012/05/03 23:38] (current) – wilba
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 If you want, you can reuse C3 and C4 as extra smoothing capacitors on the 5v supply lines, in which case bridge J73. If you want, you can reuse C3 and C4 as extra smoothing capacitors on the 5v supply lines, in which case bridge J73.
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 ====== Socket/Switch Options ====== ====== Socket/Switch Options ======
  
 If you are constructing a base PCB to go with the PacTec PT-10 case like the original MB-6582 (or want to use the PCB mounted sockets and switch with a different case), then you will need to solder the PCB mounted sockets and switch at the top of the PCB. So you will need to solder S1, J1, J12, J13, J21, J22, J23, J24. Although fairly obvious, I'll explicitly tell you... **Do not solder J1A, J12A, J13A, J21B, J22B, J23B, J24B.** If you are constructing a base PCB to go with the PacTec PT-10 case like the original MB-6582 (or want to use the PCB mounted sockets and switch with a different case), then you will need to solder the PCB mounted sockets and switch at the top of the PCB. So you will need to solder S1, J1, J12, J13, J21, J22, J23, J24. Although fairly obvious, I'll explicitly tell you... **Do not solder J1A, J12A, J13A, J21B, J22B, J23B, J24B.**
  
-If you are choosing not to use the PCB mounted sockets and switch on the base PCB (e.g. panel mounted or separate PCB mounted) then you will need to connect those components to the base PCB with wires. In this situation, pads for SIL headers are provided. Solder headers to J12A, J13A, J21B, J22B, J23B, J24B. Solder header to J1A if using PSU Option A or B. Always use headers and connectors, this will let you adjust wire lengths after attaching the base PCB to the case, and is a more professional look anyway. +**If you are choosing not to use the PCB mounted sockets and switch on the base PCB** (e.g. panel mounted or separate PCB mounted) then you will need to connect those components to the base PCB with wires. In this situation, pads for SIL headers are provided. Solder headers to J12A, J13A, J21B, J22B, J23B, J24B. Solder header to J1A if using PSU Option A or B. Always use headers and connectors, this will let you adjust wire lengths after attaching the base PCB to the case, and is a more professional look anyway.
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-If you are using PSU Option A or B, then you need to wire a DPDT switch //between the pins of your 7-pin DIN socket and J1A// and for convenience, refer to the {{http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_8xsid_c64_psu_optimized.pdf|"C64 PSU Optimized"}} circuit as a guide. If in doubt, use your multimeter to test the voltages coming out of your 7-pin DIN socket. Remember to always use headers and connectors, do not solder wires directly to the PCB. You will also need to bridge the pads of the PCB mounted switch S1, so power supplied at J1A goes through the pads where the switch would be mounted normally. Solder bridge between pins 1 and 2 of S1. Solder bridge between pins 4 and 5 of S1.+
  
-If you are using PSU Option C, then you will be following the same steps for PSU Option A or B, and supplying either 9v AC, or 9v AC and 5v DC, to J1A via a switch, and bridging pins 1 and 2 of S1, pins 3 and 4 of S1.+**If you are choosing not to use the PCB mounted sockets and switch on the base PCB** and if you are using PSU Option A or B, then you need to wire a DPDT switch //between the pins of your 7-pin DIN socket and J1A// and for convenience, refer to the {{http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_8xsid_c64_psu_optimized.pdf|"C64 PSU Optimized"}} circuit as a guide. If in doubt, use your multimeter to test the voltages coming out of your 7-pin DIN socket. Remember to always use headers and connectors, do not solder wires directly to the PCB. You will also need to bridge the pads of the PCB mounted switch S1, so power supplied at J1A goes through the pads where the switch would be mounted normally, therefore solder bridge between pins 1 and 2 of S1 and between pins 4 and 5 of S1 to simulate an "always on" switch in S1.
  
-If you are using PSU Option D, then you need no further help, you can ignore J1A, and thus have no need to bridge pins of S1.+**If you are choosing not to use the PCB mounted sockets and switch on the base PCB** and if you are using PSU Option C, then you will be following the same steps for PSU Option A or B, and supplying either 9v AC, or 9v AC and 5v DC, to J1A via a switch, therefore solder bridge between pins 1 and 2 of S1 and between pins 4 and 5 of S1 to simulate an "always on" switch in S1.
  
 +**If you are choosing not to use the PCB mounted sockets and switch on the base PCB** and if you are using PSU Option D, then you need no further help, you can ignore J1A, and thus have no need to bridge pins of S1. Supply 12V/9V/5V/ground at J4 and make sure your switch will cut power to 12V/9V/5V pins (i.e. it is not good to be only turning off the 5V supply).
  
 ====== Soldering ====== ====== Soldering ======
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 Solder resistors R40 to R55 at time of control surface construction. This is because these resistors need to match the brightness of the LEDs you choose to use in your control surface. People who are joining bulk orders for control surface components (like LEDs) are advised to wait until they have the LEDs in their possession and can test the actual brightness of the LED with a range of resistor values (like 220 Ohms, 1k, 2k, 3k). A lot of people will get a bulk order of superbright or ultrabright LEDs from eBay which are in the 1000 to 10000 mcd range, and using 220 Ohms will put far too much current through the LEDs and they will be way too bright. Unless you want to use your control surface as a LED flashlight, you will need to increase the resistor values to decrease the current through the LEDs and thus decrease the brightness. So rather than solder 220 Ohm resistors and discover you'll need to desolder those resistors and potentially damage the pads and tracks (if it can happen to me, it can happen to you!), it is much better to experiment with one LED and some other resistor values. I discovered the hard way that the 220 Ohm resistors were way too bright with 4000 mcd blue LEDs, even when each LED was multiplexed in the matrix and only lit 1/8th the time. I eventually settled with 3k. You might find 220 Ohms works well with common 3mm LEDs of 100 mcd brightness, or 1k works well with 500 to 1000 mcd LEDs. **For the ultimate in reconfigurability, use machine pin socket strips in the pads where the R40 to R55 resistors go, so you can easily experiment with different resistor values after connecting the control surface.** Solder resistors R40 to R55 at time of control surface construction. This is because these resistors need to match the brightness of the LEDs you choose to use in your control surface. People who are joining bulk orders for control surface components (like LEDs) are advised to wait until they have the LEDs in their possession and can test the actual brightness of the LED with a range of resistor values (like 220 Ohms, 1k, 2k, 3k). A lot of people will get a bulk order of superbright or ultrabright LEDs from eBay which are in the 1000 to 10000 mcd range, and using 220 Ohms will put far too much current through the LEDs and they will be way too bright. Unless you want to use your control surface as a LED flashlight, you will need to increase the resistor values to decrease the current through the LEDs and thus decrease the brightness. So rather than solder 220 Ohm resistors and discover you'll need to desolder those resistors and potentially damage the pads and tracks (if it can happen to me, it can happen to you!), it is much better to experiment with one LED and some other resistor values. I discovered the hard way that the 220 Ohm resistors were way too bright with 4000 mcd blue LEDs, even when each LED was multiplexed in the matrix and only lit 1/8th the time. I eventually settled with 3k. You might find 220 Ohms works well with common 3mm LEDs of 100 mcd brightness, or 1k works well with 500 to 1000 mcd LEDs. **For the ultimate in reconfigurability, use machine pin socket strips in the pads where the R40 to R55 resistors go, so you can easily experiment with different resistor values after connecting the control surface.**
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 ===== Capacitors C1_SIDx, C2_SIDx, C21_SIDx, C22_SIDx (SID filter capacitors) ===== ===== Capacitors C1_SIDx, C2_SIDx, C21_SIDx, C22_SIDx (SID filter capacitors) =====
  
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 {{mb-6582:machined_pin_socket_strip.gif}} {{mb-6582:machined_pin_socket_strip.gif}}
  
 +They are available from [[http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?CMP=i-ddd7-00001003&sku=1023035|Farnell]], [[http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Harwin/D01-9973242/?qs=ecHgFjcWJS%252bVNM5C80XwDA%3d%3d|Mouser]] and [[https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&productId=78642&catalogId=10001&storeId=10001|Jameco]] and likely other electronic parts stores.
  
 ===== Electrolytic Capacitors ===== ===== Electrolytic Capacitors =====
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 Before inserting SIDs and uploading MB-SID V2, you might want to test the audio buffer circuits of the SID modules, and then get the SID to play a 1khz test tone. Before inserting SIDs and uploading MB-SID V2, you might want to test the audio buffer circuits of the SID modules, and then get the SID to play a 1khz test tone.
  
-Upload the testtone app: http://www.ucapps.de/mios/mbsid_testtone_v3b.zip+Upload the testtone app: [[http://www.ucapps.de/mios/mbsid_testtone_v3b.zip]]
  
 The PIC is generating a 1khz square wave going to pin 8, which is normally used during writing new data to the SID. With the SID out of the socket, you can bridge SID socket pin 8 with 27 with a bit of wire or a resistor (anything less than 1K should work I think), and make this 1khz square wave go through the audio buffer and out the audio outputs and into a mixer/amp. Thus you can test the audio buffer without a SID. Then, when this works, you can remove the wire/resistor, power off, insert the SID and power on. Now the SID should play the same 1khz tone, this time because the PIC is sending the SID data and it is internally generating the 1khz tone and outputting it through pin 27. The PIC is generating a 1khz square wave going to pin 8, which is normally used during writing new data to the SID. With the SID out of the socket, you can bridge SID socket pin 8 with 27 with a bit of wire or a resistor (anything less than 1K should work I think), and make this 1khz square wave go through the audio buffer and out the audio outputs and into a mixer/amp. Thus you can test the audio buffer without a SID. Then, when this works, you can remove the wire/resistor, power off, insert the SID and power on. Now the SID should play the same 1khz tone, this time because the PIC is sending the SID data and it is internally generating the 1khz tone and outputting it through pin 27.
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 Don't forget R80.  This resistor is required for the CAN Bus to function.  If you populated all the Cores and they aren't working, then you probably forgot R80. Don't forget R80.  This resistor is required for the CAN Bus to function.  If you populated all the Cores and they aren't working, then you probably forgot R80.
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 ====== Finished? ====== ====== Finished? ======
  
 Maybe not. Go read the notes at the end of this page: Maybe not. Go read the notes at the end of this page:
-http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/wilba_mb_6582+[[http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/wilba_mb_6582]]
  
 ====== Base PCB Revision 1 Errors ====== ====== Base PCB Revision 1 Errors ======
  
-http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=9781+[[http://midibox.org/forums/topic/9091-mb-6582-base-pcb-errors]] 
  
-http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=9775 
wilba_mb_6582_base_pcb_construction_guide.1238983518.txt.gz · Last modified: 2009/04/06 02:05 by frailn