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wilba_mb_6582_control_surface_construction_guide

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wilba_mb_6582_control_surface_construction_guide [2008/09/29 20:49] – external edit 127.0.0.1wilba_mb_6582_control_surface_construction_guide [2020/12/15 15:13] (current) – Added link to JST cabling method m00dawg
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 **Some preliminary pictures of construction which will be properly annotated in future (as part of my MB-6582 photoset on Flickr):** **Some preliminary pictures of construction which will be properly annotated in future (as part of my MB-6582 photoset on Flickr):**
  
-http://www.flickr.com/photos/wilba/2101969719/in/set-72157594358133094/+[[http://www.flickr.com/photos/wilba/2101969719/in/set-72157594358133094/]]
  
 I still have not fully completed the control surface construction guide. I still have not fully completed the control surface construction guide.
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 hold together with four clamps hold together with four clamps
  
-make sure thinks are aligned perfectly (check switches on panel)+make sure things are aligned perfectly (check switches on panel)
  
 JB-Weld the screws in the corners to the panel (use nut to hold it in place) JB-Weld the screws in the corners to the panel (use nut to hold it in place)
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 Insert LEDs. **CHECK THEY ARE IN CORRECTLY ALIGNED** Insert LEDs. **CHECK THEY ARE IN CORRECTLY ALIGNED**
  
-The flat side of the LED should match the flat side of the symbol on the PCB. The flat side has the cathode. Also the shorter lead is the cathode. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LED#Considerations_in_use+The flat side of the LED should match the flat side of the symbol on the PCB. The flat side has the cathode. Also the shorter lead is the cathode. [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LED#Considerations_in_use]]
  
 Put the PCB in the PT-10 case top where the panel would normally go, so the LEDs can be put in without bending the leads.  Put the PCB in the PT-10 case top where the panel would normally go, so the LEDs can be put in without bending the leads. 
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-REMINDER: HAVE YOU REMOVED THE DETENTS from the ones that aren't the "menu encoder"? Removing detents is really just squashing the little bump inside the encoder. I'll explain this process elsewhere (or just ask me).+REMINDER: HAVE YOU REMOVED THE DETENTS from the ones that aren't the "menu encoder"? Removing detents is really just squashing the little bump inside the encoder. The process is explained [[encoders|here]].
  
 If you are crazy and want to do illuminated knobs, NOW is the time to solder LEDs to the rotary encoders. If you are crazy and want to do illuminated knobs, NOW is the time to solder LEDs to the rotary encoders.
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 **SOLDERING RIBBON CABLE BETWEEN BASE AND CS PCBS** **SOLDERING RIBBON CABLE BETWEEN BASE AND CS PCBS**
 +
 +**Note** There is a potentially better method mentioned on the forums ([[http://midibox.org/forums/topic/21498-connecting-mb-6582-pcbs-with-jst-xh/|here]]) which uses JST headers on the baseboard and either right-angled JST headers on the CS or just normal right-angled SIL headers. Coupled with ready-made JST cables, this is a much simpler approach and allows the two boards to be separated easily. It is worth a look before going down the path mentioned below.
  
 This is a slightly difficult process, so I'll give as much advice as possible. This is a slightly difficult process, so I'll give as much advice as possible.
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 Continuity check the ribbon cable. Make sure there are NO SHORTS between any two adjacent pins of the ribbon cable joints. Make sure GND and 5V are not connected (the single 2-wire cable). Continuity check the ribbon cable. Make sure there are NO SHORTS between any two adjacent pins of the ribbon cable joints. Make sure GND and 5V are not connected (the single 2-wire cable).
  
-***Note** Bugfight created a detachable solution by using Right Angled SIL Headers on the base PCB in [[http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,9798.msg76472.html#msg76472|this]] thread. +***Note** Bugfight created a detachable solution by using Right Angled SIL Headers on the base PCB in <del>[[http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,9798.msg76472.html#msg76472|this]]</del> [[http://midibox.org/forums/topic/9107-i-made-noise-with-my-mb-6582/#entry75065|this]] thread.
- +
-Click [[http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,11762.msg94800.html#msg94800|here]] for Wilba's advice before considering this alternative strategy.+
  
 +Click <del>[[http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,11762.msg94800.html#msg94800|here]]</del> [[http://midibox.org/forums/topic/10963-mb-6582-cs-cabling/|here]] for Wilba's advice before considering this alternative strategy.
  
 +More interconnect info: [[http://midibox.org/forums/topic/14535-mb-6582-ribbon-cable-question/|forum thread]] - [[http://midibox.org/forums/topic/12900-thicker-gauge-wire-for-cs-pcb-to-pcb/|forum thread]]
  
 **woohoo!** nearly finished! **woohoo!** nearly finished!
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-***Note*** Please see Wilbas post [[http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,9623.msg70697.html#msg70697|here]], for advice on how to connect the LCD to the control surface.+***Note*** Please see Wilbas post <del>[[http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,9623.msg70697.html#msg70697|here]]</del> [[http://midibox.org/forums/topic/14329-mb-6582-lcd-wiring-question/|here]], for advice on how to connect the LCD to the control surface. 
 + 
 +Here is a guide to soldering the wires to the LCD. I suggest "rounding" the cable afterwards, it's easier to identify which wire goes to which pin when it's still a flat ribbon. Also, don't solder the wires INTO the holes, strip, tin and solder tinned ends flat against the pads.
  
 +[[http://www.midibox.org/users/jim_henry/building_a_midibox_lcd_cable.pdf]]
  
 I've suggested **not** soldering R40-R55 until now. Now you can take a 220 Ohm resistor and insert it into one set of pads of R40-R55 and see how bright the LEDs are. For SmashTV LEDs, 1K will probably be best. If you are using some ultrabright or superbright LEDs, blue or white LEDs, etc. you may want to try 2K, 3K or higher resistors. **Keep in mind, what looks like a good brightness as a single LED might become too bright and too much glare when there are many lit at once. It is best to choose a resistor that makes the LEDs a little less bright than the brightest you can handle.** I've suggested **not** soldering R40-R55 until now. Now you can take a 220 Ohm resistor and insert it into one set of pads of R40-R55 and see how bright the LEDs are. For SmashTV LEDs, 1K will probably be best. If you are using some ultrabright or superbright LEDs, blue or white LEDs, etc. you may want to try 2K, 3K or higher resistors. **Keep in mind, what looks like a good brightness as a single LED might become too bright and too much glare when there are many lit at once. It is best to choose a resistor that makes the LEDs a little less bright than the brightest you can handle.**
wilba_mb_6582_control_surface_construction_guide.1222721346.txt.gz · Last modified: 2009/05/20 14:06 (external edit)