Differences

This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.

--- wilba_mb_seq_construction_guide [2009/06/17 10:18] – 122.107.157.237
+++ wilba_mb_seq_construction_guide [2018/04/01 21:06] (current) – [Trouble Shoot] phatline
@@ Line 88: / Line 88: @@
 I use a Dremel (rotary tool) with a grinding disc to remove the nubs/protrusions from my encoders. If you do not have this tool, you can use wire cutters and a lot of force... or call a friend who has some tools to help you.
 ====== Soldering Components ======
@@ Line 101: / Line 100: @@
   * encoders
   * LEDs
 The LEDs should be soldered with the PCB and panel attached and perfectly aligned. The two parts of the PCB should also have been joined with soldered wire before soldering LEDs.
-**Rehearse/practice the following phase with a couple LEDs - inserting LEDs into the PCB, attaching the panel and flipping the panel and PCB.**
+Rehearse/practice the following phase with a couple LEDs - inserting LEDs into the PCB, attaching the panel and flipping the panel and PCB.
+**//NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF LED31/"step view" - it is opposite vs. the other LEDs!
+//**
 Place LEDs into the PCB. Take extra care when placing the LEDs into the PCB. In particular, the Step View LED is of a different orientation to others nearby. Attach the panel. Flip the attached PCB and panel. Lay it down with the panel slightly raised so the LEDs can fall into the holes (the switch caps and/or encoder shafts keep it raised). Use LED leads to position LED into the panel holes. Solder the longer leads of all the LEDs. Check all the LEDs are at the same height - ones that are not can be adjusted by pushing the LED while reheating the solder joint.
@@ Line 111: / Line 114: @@
 I used 220 Ohm resistors for SmashTV's green 3mm LEDs and 220 Ohm for SmashTV's red 5mm LED (the "Beat" LED). For the bicolor LEDs I used (and may come with your PCB), I used 470 Ohm for the green and 1K for the red.
+**//NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF LED31/"step view" - it is opposite vs. the other LEDs!
+//**
 |**Part**|**Suggested Value**|**Purpose**           |
@@ Line 127: / Line 133: @@
 * If you are not using green 3mm LEDs from SmashTV, you may need to change 220 Ohm to something else. For red 3mm LEDs from SmashTV, use 470 Ohm or 1K. For blue LEDs, consult a psychiatrist.
+====== Parts List / Placement  ======
+Please use the following list to stuff your PCB accordingly (yet incomplete):
+|**Part**|**Description**|
+|U1,U2,U3,U4,U5,U6 |74HC165|
+|U7,U8             |74HC595|
+|**Jumper/Connector**|**Description**|**Connecting to**|
+|J1 | DIN/DOUT | to CORE/CORE32 Wiring 1:1 with J8/J9|
+|J2 | DIN/DOUT | to additional control elements in the Chain|
+|J3 | Beat LED| optional Beat LED connection (if not mounting LED to PCB)|
+|J4 | Datawheel Encoder| to PCB using Wires |
+|J5 | Datawheel Switch | (optional) for encoder with switch |
+====== Trouble Shoot ======
+to figure out that your problems with that pcb are softwareside (buggy firmware, or false hw-config), you can test all Buttons and LEDs with that firmware:\\
+{{:phatline:SEQ-CS-TEST.zip|the Code}}