wilba_mb_6582_control_surface_construction_guide
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wilba_mb_6582_control_surface_construction_guide [2009/05/20 14:06] 192.165.213.18 |
wilba_mb_6582_control_surface_construction_guide [2009/10/17 14:31] Kyo |
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| **Some preliminary pictures of construction which will be properly annotated in future (as part of my MB-6582 photoset on Flickr):** | **Some preliminary pictures of construction which will be properly annotated in future (as part of my MB-6582 photoset on Flickr):** | ||
| - | http://www.flickr.com/photos/wilba/2101969719/in/set-72157594358133094/ | + | [[http://www.flickr.com/photos/wilba/2101969719/in/set-72157594358133094/]] |
| I still have not fully completed the control surface construction guide. | I still have not fully completed the control surface construction guide. | ||
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| Insert LEDs. **CHECK THEY ARE IN CORRECTLY ALIGNED** | Insert LEDs. **CHECK THEY ARE IN CORRECTLY ALIGNED** | ||
| - | The flat side of the LED should match the flat side of the symbol on the PCB. The flat side has the cathode. Also the shorter lead is the cathode. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LED#Considerations_in_use | + | The flat side of the LED should match the flat side of the symbol on the PCB. The flat side has the cathode. Also the shorter lead is the cathode. [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LED#Considerations_in_use]] |
| Put the PCB in the PT-10 case top where the panel would normally go, so the LEDs can be put in without bending the leads. | Put the PCB in the PT-10 case top where the panel would normally go, so the LEDs can be put in without bending the leads. | ||
| Line 167: | Line 167: | ||
| ***Note*** Please see Wilbas post [[http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,9623.msg70697.html#msg70697|here]], for advice on how to connect the LCD to the control surface. | ***Note*** Please see Wilbas post [[http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,9623.msg70697.html#msg70697|here]], for advice on how to connect the LCD to the control surface. | ||
| + | Here is a guide to soldering the wires to the LCD. I suggest "rounding" the cable afterwards, it's easier to identify which wire goes to which pin when it's still a flat ribbon. Also, don't solder the wires INTO the holes, strip, tin and solder tinned ends flat against the pads. | ||
| + | |||
| + | [[http://www.midibox.org/users/jim_henry/building_a_midibox_lcd_cable.pdf]] | ||
| I've suggested **not** soldering R40-R55 until now. Now you can take a 220 Ohm resistor and insert it into one set of pads of R40-R55 and see how bright the LEDs are. For SmashTV LEDs, 1K will probably be best. If you are using some ultrabright or superbright LEDs, blue or white LEDs, etc. you may want to try 2K, 3K or higher resistors. **Keep in mind, what looks like a good brightness as a single LED might become too bright and too much glare when there are many lit at once. It is best to choose a resistor that makes the LEDs a little less bright than the brightest you can handle.** | I've suggested **not** soldering R40-R55 until now. Now you can take a 220 Ohm resistor and insert it into one set of pads of R40-R55 and see how bright the LEDs are. For SmashTV LEDs, 1K will probably be best. If you are using some ultrabright or superbright LEDs, blue or white LEDs, etc. you may want to try 2K, 3K or higher resistors. **Keep in mind, what looks like a good brightness as a single LED might become too bright and too much glare when there are many lit at once. It is best to choose a resistor that makes the LEDs a little less bright than the brightest you can handle.** | ||
wilba_mb_6582_control_surface_construction_guide.txt ยท Last modified: 2020/12/15 15:13 by m00dawg
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